SUBTRACTION
CUTTING

A method of “hollow construction” has been created by fashion designer Julian Roberts». This pattern-cutting technique known as “Subtraction Cutting” makes the most of the negative spaces that can be opened up in fabric and fall somewhere between traditional pattern-making and draping resulting in experimental garments that break the boundaries of the usual garment shapes.

The techniques often build from the shape of an initial flat piece of material. This initial material is then sliced or opened up with holes, allowing the material to be twisted upon itself, fed through itself or enlarged with more pieces of fabrics.

“This is a subtraction method of cutting, because the resulting shape is created by the removal of fabric, not the addition of fabric. This removal creates space for the body, but also controls how the fabric falls around the body.”